1. I want to include G-code to print a Purge line or nozzle wipe before print begins:
For D3D Pro (8" bed):

G1 X197 Y176 Z0.3 ;Move printhead to start position
G92 E0 ;0 out extruder
G1 X97 Y176 E20 F1500 ;Move to X97 Y176 and extrude 20mm filament
G1 X47 Y176 Z0.2 F6000 ;Wipe nozzle
G92 E0 ; 0 out extruder

For D3D Pro 2:

G1 X205 Y259 Z0.3 ;Move printhead to start position
G92 E0 ;0 out extruder
G1 X105 Y259 E20 F1500 ;Move to X105 Y259 and extrude 20mm filament
G1 X55 Y259 Z0.2 F6000 ;Wipe nozzle
G92 E0 ; 0 out extruder
2. Automatic bed Leveling before print start.

3. Attempting to print Universal Base - can't fit it all on 300mm bed - Solutions??
split into 2??? but how?

D3D Pro 2 (12" bed) crashing down violently after each print - destroyed all Z axes bed clamps - reprinting bed clamps.
To prevent further damage; in End G-code insert:
G0 Z300; Move bed down 300mm just before M84 command
M84 ; Turn motors off.
Do the same for D3D Pro (8" bed): G0 Z195
Bed clamps for Z Axes belts reprinted and refitted. Printing test benchy.

Start 9am.
Insert End G-code +Z_MAX_POS.
Inserting: G1 Z175 ; move heat bed down 175mm. Still a little to high before knocking off power to Z motors. Try G1 Z200 ( may need to adjust Z_MAX_POS to 200, currently set to 175 in configuration.h file)
Apply same to D3D Pro 2 machine: G1 Z250 (in End G-Code)

Finally, printed decent prints of XYZ calibration cube on new printer. Ready to start printing Universal base.
But first need to sort out sudden drop of heat bed after print. Heat bed is very heavy and the sudden drop I am afraid will damage the Z axes bed support carriages. Possible solution: include code in End G-code to move Z axis to Z_MAX_POS.

meeting with marcin to discuss creating pattern language icons for seed eco home v2

Start 7:30am.
Replacing Extruder tensioner. Try printing XYZ calibration cube again. Print comes out badly - Layer shift along y axis.
Broken Z axis Base attachment - 2nd one to break. Reprinting base at 100% infill. (Not sure why base is breaking - undue stress???)
Learned how to alter Marlin - in Configuration.h
Altered Line 715 Y_MAX_POS = 250
Altered Line 716 X_MAX_POS = 250
Altered Line 717 Z_MAX_POS = 250
MAX_POS checked using Move Axis command - OK.

Start 9am.
Remaking Nichrome heater for D3D Pro 2. Halogen lamps will be for later models - Still trying to source lamps and holders locally.
Remade Nichrome heater. Working OK.
X axis not moving again. Problem set screws holding pulley loose. Re-tightened OK.
Attempting 1st print again - XYZ Calibration cube - Extruder tensioner idler bearing mount broke off - Reprinting tensioner (100% infill like before).

Reorganized 9 foot double door parts gallery

Cover check + upload

First print started - not using heated bed - Still to remake nichrome heater.
Printing very, very, very slowly. Ah well, it's a start, at least its printing. Tomorrow to remake heater and find out why printer printing slowly - not normal speed.

Carrying out final tests: Auto Home is OK: X, Y and Z motors homing nicely.
Extruder temperature and screen reading OK.
Extruder motor jerking and not moving. Further investigation found wiring at connector at E motor in wrong position - My mistake moving the wiring. Wiring corrected - E Motor working OK.
Calibration of Extruder E Steps: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder?rcode=YTUBE
Formula New Esteps=old Esteps x (100/amount extruded). Reduced from +425steps/mm down to +101.55steps/mm.
Ready for 1st Print.

Start 7:30am.
Checking and replacing drivers. Finally found 5 drivers that work. Blew through 12 drivers plus one received with SMD broken off. Is this normal? To have 12 out of 20 Drivers malfunctioning? Or did I inadvertently damage them???

A4988 Stepper Motor Driver available locally (online) for Rp13,900 ($0.99) each. Ordered 10.

New issue - all the motors don't move when selected under "Move Axis " menu.
Blower fan runs OK on power on (240VAC)
Extruder heater heats up OK and temperature reading on screen OK.
24 VDC supply OK.
5VDC supply OK.
By swapping driver from #1 able to move X axis. Drivers fitted to #2, all 5 of them, are duds. (How to test drivers before fitting to board - To think about)
16:30 - to continue tomorrow.

16:00
Turns out problem with upload was the cable. I was trying to use cable from 2D printer which is very long (1.8m long) laptop kept crashing. Moved laptop closer to #2 and used short cable (30cm) that came in RAMPS kit.

8am - 1:30pm.
Trouble shooting X motor: found driver thingy not working. By swapping drivers between my 1st printer (which I'll call #1 and 2nd printer #2) and #2. Actually I destroyed one driver by fitting the wrong way round. Also burnt one Arduino board - smoke coming out of it. Ended up with 6 drivers. Printer #1 is up and running again. #2 replaced the RAMPS 1.4 controller first, but realised smoke was coming from Arduino board. Replaced the Arduino now trying to upload Marlin but my laptop keeps crashing when I try to upload - Searching online for a solution.

reorganized parts gallery on 9footdoorpanel

8am Start.
To troubleshoot heater malfunction (investigate using halogen lamps instead of nichrome wire)
To troubleshoot motors not turning.
Z motors working OK.
X, Y & E motors not turning. Comparing 1st printer board and 2nd printer found jmpers missing from under the driver boards. Jumpers part of Ramps kit purchased online (my bad!). Jumpers inserted. Y1 & Y2 motors now working OK.
X & E motors still not working. To be continued tomorrow.

Problem with Z bed support carriages where rods are fastened. Weak support keeps breaking and cannot use set screws to secure the rods. I've used cable ties for now. (To include pictures)
Suggestion: Either strengthen (increase the thickness) the thinner side of the Z bed support or make provision for using cable ties (Diagrams to follow)

Start 7am - 530pm
Completed D3D Pro 2 build.
Uploaded Marlin. Previously had a problem with my serial ports on Mac Book Pro.
Issues: 1. Heater burnt out at 1st trial.
2. Wiring for motors at connectors - different positions than 1st printer. To investigate further tomorrow. Change position of wires in connectors to match 1st machine???

Start 7am.
Beginning print of parts for 2nd D3D Pro (3rd Build - Machine for sale) while completing D3D Pro 2 printer.
A couple of belt clamps broke (Over tightened). Reprinting at 100% infill.

Rosebud - Kitchen Design + BoM

Experiencing layer shift on X axis. Found X motor pulley loose. Repair carried out satis.
Continued D3D Pro 2 build. Completed heat bed and added PEI cover.
Inserting GT2 Belts to X axis, Y axes and Z Axes. Continue tomorrow.

Rosebud - KItchen Design + BoM

build days 1-5, looking for crew

paint, panels

Paint, panels

panels

Updating log.

cleaned up and reviewed the module CAD parts galleries to only state the quantity of each unique part and the file name, also added comment for Justin and Logan on Facebook page

Wiring 4 Z motors in series

Universal Extruder assembly and wiring.

Rosedbud - plywood flooring BoM

Rosedub desugb - carport CAD revisions

Painting and staining list + materials + CAD revisions

build prep

Rosebud - Interior Finishing - materials research

8 foot window parts gallery

Drawing Mount Plate for Motor Drive Module and Track Idler Module (try)

Universal Track Unit Conceptual Design + User page

Universal Track Unit Conceptual Design

build prep

Updating Track Drive Shaft + Track Drive Module + Universal Track Unit Conceptual Design

Updating Track Idler Shaft + Track Idler Module + Universal Track Unit Conceptual Design

Updating Big motor drive sprocket + drawing Coupler for Track Drive Sprocket

Universal Track Unit Conceptual Design

pulbishing summer x, video, collaborative protocol dev on video and Hackathon

Making internal keyways working doc

publishing SummerX

Study "Making Keyways" wiki page